Be sure to sign up below to get updates on this project, free templates, plans, etc., directly to your inbox. Of course, this rule limits the widths you can choose from. Measure the distance between the bottoms of the grooves, in both directions, using pinch sticks. If you have a set inside depth add 3/8-inch for the bottom and 3/8-inch plus a saw kerf for the top. Whether solid wood or plywood, cut the bottom and/or top about 1/2-inch larger than needed in both directions and set aside. With these small box projects, it would be great if you could address resawing by hand. As you can see, the front corner joints are dovetails, and for the back 2 joints of the box, you’ll use dado joinery. I use a coping saw to complete the pin and socket spaces. You’ll need to have a good rummage through the racks to find pieces that aren’t twisted or have a join but it’s generally plenty good enough for boxes and takes minimal work to get square. Watch this video to see me creating these dovetails. I cut all the socket pieces separately in case there is any variation in the pin spacing. Now make sure everything fits together nice and tight, you may need to do a little work to the pins to make them fit the tails nicely. This page may have affiliate links. Clamp scraps of a soft wood to both sides of the pair of pieces and hog out the material between pins. For anyone in the UK who’s after timber to make these boxes and is struggling to find stuff close to final thickness, the supplier you need is B&Q. You would then cut the handle and mortises, plow the grooves, cut the bottom, and finally glue it all together…don’t worry, the video covers it all. That way, construction and methods behind construction become integral from a working knowledge and more readily transposed into visually distinctive pieces. Make the joints as flush as you can. If you have a 7/8″ jig, make the sides 4-1/2″ high. By the end of one year you will be able to tackle all kinds of boxes ranging from this chisel tray to a complex tool chest like this. Now measure the distance between the grooves at the back of the drawer box. Next, adjust the position of the comb in or out. For a beginner friendly step-by-step guide on how to make a Chisel Tray, see our sister sister Common Woodworking. If you have the jig from Wood Shop Essentials, the plans include directions on marking tails, using the jig, transfering the lines, and cutting the tails and pins. Clamp the sticks together, then rotate the assembly out of the grooves. After routing both Left Corners, move on to the Right Corners. We used maple for our model cabinet because it contrasts nicely with cherry, the cabinet’s primary wood. (These pieces are interchangeable, so it doesn’t matter which two you use.) Well I’m no more qualified to answer your questions than you are, but they’re similar to concerns that I had, so I’ll give you my thoughts. The drawer-box sides will be the length of the drawer (minus the thickness of the drawer face), and the drawer-box back will be cut to length after the dovetails and dados are cut. Now run each board (front and 2 sides) along to make the cut at the same fence setup. Finally, mark each part of the drawer as a front, back or side (Photo 2). Follow along and I’ll illustrate the entire process. for . In this article, you’ll learn how to use a typical half-blind dovetail jig to make a standard drawer box. Box joints (finger joints) are known for their striking symmetry and strength. This is an important number when you’re figuring out how wide the sides of your drawers should be. If some portion is uncut, rout it again. © 2013 - 2017 Wood and Shop Productions & Joshua T. Farnsworth | All content on WoodAndShop.com is copyrighted and may not be reprinted or used without our written consent. Sand all of the inside surfaces of the drawer and the top side of the drawer bottom. My local timber yard will do 8mm, 15mm and upwards, which may work at a pinch, but trying to avoid excessive planing or resawing before I get to start the actual project… Many thanks. They will be increments of 7/8″ or 1″, plus the narrowest dimension of one half-pin, depending on your jig. Use plywood ideally, I’m using 1/4″ MDF I had laying around. Summary Questions: Can I simply take the first box and use 1/2″ wood all around? Start with 4/4 (1″) rough stock and saw it into individual drawer pieces (front, back and sides). For me having the sides fractionally thicker than the front and back is a good look.

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