right to left. This suggests that the knifewall was not accurately transferred. You should be Thanks, I will go back to that exercise and practice those some more. SO, I have been pulling backward to kind of create a groove, and then start the cut angled. Again, always clamp the drawer side to the front of But, I have books! Hello all. Advance your craft and learn how to make dovetail joints that are both functional and beautiful dovetail joints. If I make one, maybe I can post it here?? corner joint (marked No. Sorry I can't help further. The squareness of the blade to the base, is useful for checking square dovetails. STEP ONE: If the dovetail joints aren't completely pulled apart then use a rubber mallet to gently tap … The sequence of photos shows the process for fixing a badly fitting half blind drawer dovetail. Half-blind Dovetail Template 17/32", 7° Dovetail Bit 43776PC 3/4" O.D. I’m cutting joints in 5/8 in birch that has been milled perfectly flat. In raising a moulding round the edge of a panel, I had 'acquired' two nasty chips. If you aren’t certain your walls are 90° and the floors are flat then you probably should check them. A knifewall is much more accurate whereas a pencil line is thick and leaves room for error. It’s got my initials on it. Glue is typically used to reinforce the joints, but screws, nails and other pins are not necessary. If you glued this up, it could last for 100 years. The dovetail shape on the drawer side was cut correctly. I’ve devised in my head some ways of converting a combination square to hold a skinny blade to do this operation. And pay attention to the grain direction - match this as closely to the pins in the joint as possible, for the best results. Make sure you use a knife wall, this means you will have a line to pare cut to. It's best to use hot vinegar to break down. If the dovetail in the side had an uneven cut, it should be evened up before preparing the end-grain inserts. 1). In this case, more drastic action is needed. Two optional templates are available for making 1⁄ 2" and 3⁄ 4" half-blind dovetails and pins. Chisels…a couple of nifty layout gauges for 6:1 and 8:1. dovetail bit, a guide bushing, and a special dovetail jig. And a gentleman’s dove tail saw. This is cheaper but similar. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. Come join the discussion about different types of routing and routers, shop safety, finishing, woodworking related topics, styles, tools, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more! Details of the cookies we use and what you can do to switch them off are are in our Privacy Policy. clamped down in the jig so they’re flush across Try to get the angle directly off the saw for your pins and tails without pare cutting, if possible only use pare cutting for the recess in between the pins as this is from your chisel, not a saw line. Your Dovetails. Dovetail joints can be pretty unforgiving. the top, or because they move out of position as Save up to 68% on 7 issues of woodworking projects and tricks. guide bushing (Figure 3), and a 14°, 1/ 2" dovetail router bit. Sometimes when I start a cut with my saw it gets a little off line or angle, and I try to readjust it back onto the line. Once you're happy with the fit, put a dab of glue in the gap and lightly tap the insert wedge into place. After routing, but before removing the pieces from the jig, Think of it as a skinny square rather than as a depth gauge. When cutting dovetails with skinny pins, it’s impossible to get a finger or a square into the joint to feel it up. tight, decrease depth. enough, move toward jig. In this case, the recess in the drawer front had been over-cut. This produces a dovetail joint thats symmetrical both Paul takes the joint apart (remember to use a rubber faced hammer to avoid hammer marks damaging the surface) and checks for an uneven surface between the pins then uses the square to check. check that you’ve routed each socket evenly and all the DEEP: If pins go deep, move template But what is the best way to go about this? By using our website you accept the terms of our Privacy Policy. The other two joints (No. Sometimes, if you're lucky, you will still have the chip. Nah. Sometimes, I get lucky and minimal or no repairs are needed and other times it takes a little more effort to bring a piece back to life. What do I find in my “Modern Practical Joinery” by George Ellis pg. We opened up our postbox for beginners to send in one of their first dovetail to get advice as to why it may not be the standard they had hoped for. Someone mentioned the Starrett. We have summarised the main points below: Just because there are gaps, it doesn’t mean that this dovetail won’t stay together. A badly fitting dovetail is something that is difficult to live with. the right side, follow the same procedure as you did on the I notice Paul in the “sawing technique video” on the angled cuts exercise, tilts his blade forward so it is only cutting the far corner to start and then dips the blade down. chipout on drawer side, start by making a light pass from This may come as a shock to most, but I have never cut a dovetail – by machine or hand – in my life. To make sure the corners I came up with a simple solution for checking squareness and depth of moulding plane beds. This may be caused by using a pencil line instead of a knifewall to transfer the line. I think its more muscle memory at this point. When I go to start the cut, I want to ensure that my saw blade is square to the wood. From my Porter Cable 4200 (12inch) manual. The tails and pins are so tight that I have to bang, whack, clamp, and otherwise carry on to the point of splitting the drawer pieces. Take a look at the Drawer Layout drawing on I am new to dove-tailing, am using a Porter Cable router and jig setup. the bottom edges against the stop on the left and the insides page 1. Troubleshooting I started with a piece of junk from Harbor freight, but just stepped up to the PC. thick, with the edges a a parallel and b at right angles with them.” (I wish I had italics for the a and b).
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